Before arriving to begin the inspection, I would call and interview the customer, with questions pertaining to the property history, past maintenance issues, defects and repairs that have been made. With this information, I would be able to prepare for and conduct an informed and professional home inspection.
Arriving on site, my first task would be to inspect the exterior of the house, beginning at the left looking from roof to ground, left to right. I look for missing or broken shingles, holes in the roof and missing or broken roof jacks. I also want to try to determine the roof’s age and whether the present shingles are a second or third layer. Wood shingles should not be used as an underlayment for asphalt-based shingles due to possible deterioration of the wood and possible over stressing of the roof framing because of the extra weight. I would also check eaves, soffitts and gutters for signs of water leaks and resulting rot and damage to the wood or rusty metal. This part of the inspection would also apply to flashings and step shingles around chimneys or angled roof lines over another, lower roof. On the north side, I check for moss growing at shingle edges which can retain rain water so it seeps back into the eaves, causing possible rot and damage.
Looking at the siding or stucco, I want to see at least four inches of clearance between the lowest siding line and dirt or grass to preclude the entrance of termites or other wood-chewing pests their ability to enter the house framing. This separation also provides a buffer zone to mitigate water intrusion at the sole plates of the house structure. I also want inspect for cracks in stucco that might lead to water intrusion behind it into wall framing. It would be particularly important to use a penetrating-type moisture meter such as the Delmhorst BD-21, with long pins, to check stucco called EIFS, since it is very susceptible to water intrusion.
Continuing around the house, I inspect walk ways and driveways for trip hazards, large cracks other than at expansion joints, as well as evidence that foundation cracking has caused settling away from the wall framing. In this same light, I want to know if the house has been built on Expansive Clay, which requires consistent water management around the house due to its propensity to contract and expand with wet and dry periods.
Next, I inspect porch and patio columns for dirt or concrete contact and the resulting rot and deterioration. I look for rotted fence posts and framing members on wing fences. If the house is on a raised foundation, I inspect for adequate foundation vents that are intact and will not allow vermin or other pests under the house. It is important also to note the presence of tree roots too close to the foundation or branches too close to windows, walls and roof.
These can have a deleterious effect on the house both above and below the ground. I also will have inspected the electrical main panel to ensure breakers or fuses are installed and not tripped or burned, and that there is an adequately sized service to the house.
At the entry to the home, I am prepared to put on shoe covers and in every way respect the owner’s privacy and personal belongings. First, I inspect the door, jamb, threshold and entry flooring for signs of damage, water intrusion and suspect mold or stains. Proceeding, as always, from left to right, I inspect the ceilings, walls and floors for stains, drywall cracks, damage or anything that would be hazardous to the health and welfare of the occupants. Digital photographs are helpful in recording such damage and water intrusion. It is also imperative to have written or voice-recorded notes of what I have inspected and found, in order to facilitate a complete written report.
If suspicious stains or water marks are found on ceilings or under window sills, I would use my moisture meter to determine if there is reason for concern in these areas. It would be best to use a non-penetrating type of meter in these cases.
Proceeding on through the house, as I see a fireplace, I know that most states require that the fire box and chimney be inspected by one who specializes in this venue. However, I can look to see if there is a smoke shelf, and check to see if the damper opens and closes properly. I can also look for cracks in the mortar of the fire brick, or if there are broken or missing bricks. My other main concern here would be to ensure a solid hearth of adequate size and proper material to ensure cinders did not fall on combustible materials. I could not find any size specifications on the internet, but as I remember from having built my own home several times, the hearth should extend out approximately 18 inches from the fireplace, and extend 12 inches on either side of the opening.
I also inspect doors, hinges, locksets and other hardware as I proceed from room to room, to ensure they all open, close, lock and unlock as intended. I pull back blinds at windows enough to check for signs of water intrusion and resulting wood rot or mold. If personal belongings block access to anything I normally would inspect, I note the lack of access on the report as the reason such things were not inspected. As Don said in the RESCOM training video, “There is no inspection that…is going to insure…every single item has been inspected sufficiently…that you have personal contents, furniture, et cetera, that make it impossible physically to see every square inch of the inside and outside of a home…” Thus, there will probably be items not inspected, but I still look for damage, water stains or other suspect staining or mold.
In the kitchen, I check under the sink for evidence of past leakage at the trap, dishwasher connection to the disposal and stop valves and water supply lines to the faucet and dishwasher. Then I turn on the hot water for five minutes and again check for leaks, then the cold water for five minutes also, again re-checking for leaks caused by the running water. While inspecting under the sink, I look at the duplex receptacle which services the dishwasher and disposal and determine that the socket for the disposal is switch-controlled, and that the dishwasher socket is not. In the kitchen also, I inspect the installation of the cabinets for safety and security and move on to the next room.
In each room, I look from left to right, ceilings, walls and floors, to discover any damage, staining, water intrusion or mold.
In the bathroom(s), as in the kitchen, I perform the water test and check for leaks. In addition, I want to know that the shower pan and/or tub are free from cracks or other damage which could cause leakage. At this point, I would also inspect tile grout for continuity and try to determine if any of the tiles are loose, indicating that water has seeped behind the tile and degraded the sheetrock. I also want to see that faucets, spouts and shower arms are securely installed and that caulking is complete, with no gaps, to preclude any chance of water damage and possible mold. I turn on the exhaust fan to ensure that it is working properly to dispel humidity when tub and shower are in use.
In any room, I check to see if repairs have recently been made which may cover past damage. This one of the items I would have covered in the interview with the client prior to starting the inspection. I also want to check for smoke alarms in each bedroom, hall and living room, as required locally, and press the test button of each one. Next, I would check to see where the attic access is located and also the crawlspace access, which sometimes is inside a house, but mostly outside. In addition, most homes in this part of Utah have basements, which mean inspecting the stairwell and door for proper fire-rated installation (five/eighths sheetrock and steel door with good sealing). I am to realize that RESCOM has additional charges for further inspection of crawlspaces and attics.
After all rooms and the exterior have been inspected, if mold and water staining are found, I would recommend that a Mold and Indoor Air Quality Inspection be performed.
This would conclude my inspection.
